Simply not enough room to get the two in there without cutting the core support, which I didn't want to do. Remember that core charges may not be included in advertised transmission prices. I had to cut some of the Crossmember in order to fit the Front Drive Shaft. Throttle is just a cable, so I just need to get one the right length and put hook it up. Select a shift solenoid to monitor. Solenoid Functional Test Using scan tool, turn each solenoid on and off. This auxiliary transmission can help split the gearing to solve the wide ratio gap issue and also help the typically lower overdrive that manuals have.
Going with this motor is a brand new M5R2 from a F150 with the 4. Only one is needed, the other is for emissions. I see in your picture it isn't attached to anything; is that how its going to stay? Don't forget to grab the converters, pipe and 02 sensors from your donor vehicle The 3. Shrader Performance completed this project a few years ago but we just discovered it thanks to a tip from a visitor. Also the part for the 93 clutch disc indicates a 4mm smaller size differencefrom the 2000 part it doesnt seem like this would matter much when 4mm is divided between the both sides. It went together without too much fuss after that. Not a problem, just take your Ranger harness and plug it back up and combine it with the Explorer battery cables.
Here we are on Saturday morning, ready to install the engine and bolt it up to the transmission waiting under the truck. No I dont have any pics. I've since decided I'd rather have it in a full size. Yes, I'm wearing flip flops but I normally drive barefoot. The key would be to: A. For example, I installed the clutch pedal assembly, then followed that by the clutch resivour and lines. Is there something that I am missing that relates to the extra plug on the new harness that does something.
They are not as easy to find as the others listed here, and I'm not overly impressed with the gear ratios. Also on the temp sender, the 01 shows two versions depending on build date. I had to cut a part of the tray because it was coming in to contact with a part of something in my engine bay. I love things that just bolt on like the pedal assembly. If you are planning to do the swap yourself use this to estimate your time, but you might want to double it.
It has a couple things going for it. It's what's stopping me from going any farther back in this pic. The 4R100 comes in the gas or 7. If voltage and solenoid state changes, go to next step. Maybe that will solve your electrical problems. The main caps and rod bearings stick down a little bit below the oil pan mounting surface and we can't have the oil getting whipped up. I am considering it but was woundering if anyone has ever used one of these with the coil packs, instead of distributor, as far as electronics.
When it comes down to it, Im going to make a project thread about everything and maybe a 'How-To' ---------- I forgot to mention that the donor truck is also a '94. Assume you already have done the Cummins engine conversion- the adapter plate cost is only included in case you have to change yours. I couldn't think of any other approach that made sense. The biggest challenge was the chain on the load leveler kept preventing me from being able to slide the engine down and back under the ledge on the firewall. While monitoring solenoid output state, wiggle transmission wiring harness and connector. Because it wouldn't hurt to swap that out either because I had to run that copper head gasket sealer shit through it. Flex plates are different on the 4.
So I'm thinking about taking everything from the manual truck and swapping it into my '94 automatic. I don't recommend them as an option for a transmission swap, unless your engine will break whatever is behind it anyway and you plan to rebuild or replace your trans after a few race events. The transmission in my truck measured 29. Plenty of space in front of the engine. When adapted to a Cummins, it is often possible to bolt up a gas version 4R100 case to your existing adapter plate, however I definitely would not recommend replacing a 5R110 with a stock gas version 4R100.
However, it's a T3 bolt pattern and the turbo will have to be clocked to fit. If you have 37 tires and a 3. You didn't say what engine, there is a difference in bellhousing, but find a good tranny that fits your engine, need a std flywheel too, along with a clutch setup, sounds like a 4X4, may need different transfer case, driveshaft may be different length, need the clutch petal, clutch master cyl and line, and the fluid reservor, may have to change starter. You will need the C5 torque converter and the C5 flexplate. It's taken me a lot of hard work to get here, but the motor and trans are finally sitting in the truck on their own. Hydraulic clutch arrangements, especially when swapping manufacturers, can be a little tricky.
On this side of the river there is trails off of route 2 in troy, Grafton state park there is state trails, In Berlin there is state trails, Stephentown there is powerline trails that go for miles. Well mine wouldn't be a daily driver until I have it finished. Unfortunately the spacing between 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears is a bit too close for it to be ideal, so it's not much different than the 4R100 as far as gearing goes. I also have plans for the area under the truck where Ford located the huge stock muffler. Mechanical diesels and computers talk a different language.