Dave responded - I presume that unless the wire from the ignition switch has fried, I should have 12V at the Compufire, since the pink wire that goes to it splices directly into the wire from the ignition switch. Transporter presented on November 12, 1949 at an official press conference. I got some useful work done on my '70 Bug this weekend. For Americans who express wire sizes in gauges, see this. One odd thing that has referred to -- the headlight switch is a major junction for the thick red wire from the battery -- the power comes to the back of that switch and at least two other wires lead off to the ignition and fuse block.
~~~ Wiring Insulation Dave wrote regarding heat-shrink insulation - I went to the auto parts store the other day and got some shrink insulation stuff. I have a coloured wiring diagram, and I took some photos of the wiring mess before I pulled it out, but it's definitely the most daunting task of resurrecting my 1970 Bug. I managed to feed the dome light wiring back into the body stiff wire fed down from the top and pulled the wire back up from the front -- I was surprised at how well that went. So I bought a complete set and replaced them all according to the book. I don't know exactly where the colour one comes from I got it from vintagebus. See the discussion of above.
Just use the minimum diameter that will go over the wires etc and the heat hair drier should do it will shrink it tight -- it has a limited amount of shrinkage. It should be stable with the engine off. To test the ignition switch - Jim recommended simply running a temporary wire from Fuse 12 to the + terminal on the coil. If the starter is still reluctant, then it's the starter motor itself. Dave wrote - It seems to me that running a jumper from Fuse 12 would be the more valid test. My mechanic friend can't get me the large rubber grommet where the wiring comes through into the luggage compartment -- just not obtainable anywhere. On battery voltage starts going up fast.
Pity, but can't be helped. Dave wrote regarding the wires in the engine compartment - I don't want a bunch of wires dangling back there. ~~~ The Starter Motor The only real test you can do on the starter motor is to bypass all of the ignition switch wiring and test it directly by shorting out the little terminal on the starter to the big terminal which in fact is what the ignition switch does. Have you ever used this stuff? Jim responded - Yes, the wire runs directly from Fuse 12 to the + terminal on the coil. So I got out the book and tested each fuse one at a time and found that it was wired correctly, the fuses were just wrong. So, you could come off there.
Dave peeked into the distributor and found nothing looked amiss. ~~~ The Ignition Wire So having determined that both the starter motor and the ignition switch are good, Dave turned his attention to the wire between Fuse 12 and the + terminal on the coil. Now, again with the car running, check the output past the regulator. I can't find it on any wiring diagram. Might have to go with some electrical tape and mastic. The insulation on the backup lights wire was burned off from one end to the other! As soon as I disconnect the neg.
Check the reading on the battery with the engine off. Jim responded - The Black wire from the ignition switch goes to Fuse 11, 12. At that point the reading should be 12 or less. Dave wrote - Schematics are all well and good -- but I'd much rather have a wiring diagram that shows the actual layout of things, with good clear pictures. On April 23, 1947, Ben Pont saw a Volkswagen plant in Wolfsburg, the auto platform, built by workers at the Zhuk plant. Lights dim and starter wont make any sounds.
It'll be fun that's for sure. ~~~ Wiring Harness Rob wrote concerning the wiring harness - One interesting thing -- the wiring loom. So of course Dave stuck his head into the engine compartment and started poking around. Dave coasted to a stop at the curb in front of our house, and that was it. Apparently vibration and rubbing caused a short wore a hole in the insulation on the backup lights wire and burned off the insulation. I just happened to notice that it does not appear on the wiring diagram, and considering the amps it must draw I wondered about the fuse. May your weekend go well! Jim responded - Yes, that's a good test.
All the outside lights are working. It's getting there though slowly. If that part of the switch were bad, they would not come on. I think I would simply run a new temporary wire from up front to the coil. I also put the headlight wiring harnesses through those pesky long rubber tubes under the fenders rotten job - very difficult , and finally got the headlight looms wired to the fuse box. Drill a hole through the package shelf in the back or, better, under the back seat, go through the grommet for the battery cable.
Electrical can be stinky to diagnose sometimes. Just use fingers to pull each of the four corners off. It's a pain in the backside to replace. Then about two blocks from home, at about 25 mph, it did it again! I've never seen anything like this which draws more than 8 amps 100 watts. But battery reads over 12. ~~~ The Ignition Switch Regarding ignition switch replacement, Dave wrote - I searched our Web site and found that we have nothing regarding replacement of the ignition switch.