Nasty comments about my web page so far? Finding a later model tach gauge pod would be ideal, but it could be pricey and hard to find. That means there are a total of 13 new wires that will be added, 1 to be moved between connectors, and 2 to be removed and placed in a completely separate connector. These are the extra power and ground wires needed in each group of wires. The schematic measures is in brand new condition. I plan on mounting the vacuum switch in that general area with a small custom bracket.
I decided to remove the fuse block and connector from the firewall to see what the connectors looked like, and the good news is that it is a standard connector on the inside as well. There's going to be a test later. It needs to be hot + constant. I removed the wiring pigtail from the plastic connector and trimmed off the excess plastic bits to get something that seemed to be right. Just look down the catalog for an 80's Chevy truck with the optional 94A alternator - my local parts store had them in stock in several clocking styles the relationship of the front and back case halves for a very reasonable price. I also decided to coil up the extra slack in the final section of wire instead of cutting it, just in case I decide to do something different, because the connector on the low pressure switch is a molded rubber piece and I can't remove the terminal from it and put more wire on it should I decide I need to later on. I freely admit that I like lots of gauges.
The wiring needed a bit of work, but not too much. While I was buying bits and pieces, I tried to keep track of things. Not the end of the world, but it is somewhat annoying to do in practice as it nearly doubles the number of senders - the alternator warning light is the only one that does not need a sender, but it does need special wiring in the harness to work right, see the notes in one of the previous sections on this page for details. Mostly a neatness thing, but it's important to me and it will make later servicing of the engine easier with fewer wires running about randomly. If your 100% sure the alty is working, and takes this plug below. But I also want to add wires for a future Oil Temp Sensor and Oil Temp Warning Light, so that's two more for a total of eight new wires and six open slots.
These should help identify a cluster you might find at a swap meet so you know if it will work for you. Covers both gasoline and diesel engines. The remaining wiring changes I have planned affect things elsewhere in the harness and don't need more wires to cross through the firewall, so this is pretty much all I have to be concerned with for now. In each graphic, the changed boxes are outlined in red to make it more obvious. The original wiring for gauges in my truck does not have an alternator warning light. For the body harness connector, in addition to moving the Fuel Level Sensor into one of the three open slots, I'll also add wires for a Low Fuel Warning Light and a Rear End Temp Sensor.
When I started this, I knew how to add them to the engine side from my previous work on and learning about , but I wasn't sure about the passenger compartment side. Other than the fact that it's shiny clean and has a different fan, it's a direct bolt in replacement for the older unit. This should get you charging. I just dont understand why from the alternator the batt connection runs up to this junction block onto the firewall and then down to the starter. The factory gauge cluster is a good start. No biggie, it just needs to be done. Finally, since the main bore will be offset, I can drill mounting holes in the other side and easily mount this to any handy piece of sheet metal.
For the under-gauge dash pod and the the main gauge pod wires, the jumpering should be on the dash harness side of the connection - not the gauge pod side. Wiring service 1975 chevy blazer wiring diagram along with c b b along with chevy impala chevrolet diagram wiring library e a for wiring diagram chevy impala along with pic x furthermore along with c furthermore c dbef also with solved diagram electric window chevy ton fixya of chevy truck wiring diagram including pic together with chevy truck underhood wiring diagrams chucks chevy truck pages intended for chevy pickup wiring diagram including d t steering wheel locked but key will turn start help as well as fusebox additionally hqdefault 1975 Chevy Blazer Wiring Diagram Comments and Responses on Wiring diagrams, engine problems, fuse box, electrical diagram, transmission diagram, radiator diagram, exhaust system, suspension diagram. The lighting control and under-dash gauge pod connectors need to be somewhere over by the radio. The main gauge pod connector should be somewhere around the steering column - for this one I just have to be sure it ends up high enough up that it doesn't hang or fall down and interfere with the driver's feet. With no oil left to lubricate and cool it, the rear diff got so hot it nearly welded the entire assembly solid.
Comes with the Miscellaneous R. We'll see how that goes. One interesting point to note is that the slot for the red wire and the final empty slot in the engine harness are both slightly larger than the rest of the slots in the connector. Think about it for a minute and it'll make sense, just triple check yourself before tearing into the connector to change stuff - it is somewhat easy to confuse yourself. Although the schematic is in black and white, the color of each wire is noted. I have googled High and Low for this info and even bought a Chilton manual. Not counting the Oil Pressure Warning Light slot, there are six free slots in the engine harness connector.
It uses two more single connectors to make it a plug-in. I'll pass these through the firewall separately and have them go to their original locations separately from the new engine harness. This terminal is grounded only when the key is in the start position and wiring things this was ensures that all of the warning lights will come on when the key is in the start position. For reference, here are the printed circuit board part numbers I could find. Buy now for the best electrical repair info—the factory wiring diagram.